Chance conversation with Valerie Frey about Thanksgiving:
Thanksgiving this year, when I thought about how to look at Thanksgiving cooking in a new light, I actually went back in time. A chance conversation with Valerie Frey, an author and archivist who wrote a book about preserving family recipes, led me to a biography of Sarah Joseph Hale. Hale, through her editorials in Godey’s Lady’s Book, helped convince President Abraham Lincoln to declare Thanksgiving a national holiday. Until the mid-Civil War, Thanksgiving was a regional celebration in the Northeast.
Then in 1863, Lincoln signed an executive order establishing a “National Day of Thanksgiving and Praise.” So what did the residents of Savannah serve for their first Thanksgiving? A search of old recipes and cookbooks in the Georgia Historical Society’s online archives reveals that the meat was likely wild turkey or venison. There would probably have been seafood on the table, especially oysters and shrimp. There would have been rice, corn, and canned or pickled vegetables from the spring and early summer harvest. Okra. Greens. Seasonal fruits.
The Savannah Cookbook:
In his 2008 book, The Savannah Cookbook, food historian and former Savannah Morning News food columnist Damon Lee Fowler offered valuable insight into how predominantly African-American home cooks created a distinctive Savannah cuisine. And Martha Giddens Nesbitt, the paper’s former food editor and cookbook author, described how professional chefs like Elizabeth Terry used these historical foundations to put Savannah’s culinary perspective on the gourmet map. Each of these people will shape my approach to Thanksgiving this year.
But one thing remains constant: the first thing I make every Thanksgiving is a double batch of buttermilk cornbread in a cast iron skillet. It serves three purposes: I’m a fan of the perfect cornbread recipe from the 1968 edition of the Red and White Checkered Cookbook, Better Homes and Garden. I first made this recipe when I was 5 years old, under my mother’s tutelage, and it started my lifelong cookbook collecting. It calls for milk, but I substitute it with buttermilk for more texture and richness. However, when I’m pressed for time, I use 2 packages of Jiffy Mix and use that in place of buttermilk. For me, it’s important to maintain my sanity so I can enjoy a meal with others instead of spending all day in the kitchen. Cornbread is easy to make ahead of time.
Broiled Oysters with Ham-Leek-Garlic Dressing:
An elegant dish that combines the salty sweetness of oysters with a spicy, rich dressing made from ham, spring onion, and garlic. Perfect as an appetizer or small plate for special occasions such as Thanksgiving or dinner parties.
Ingredients:
2 dozen fresh oysters (shelled, scrubbed, and shucked)
1/4 cup finely chopped cooked ham
1 medium leek, minced (white and light green parts only)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup unsalted butter
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup bread crumbs (panko or fresh bread crumbs)
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped (add a little more for garnish)
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Salt and black pepper to taste
Lemon wedges for serving
Instructions
Prepare the oysters:
Preheat grill and arrange oysters on baking sheet lined with rock salt or rolled up aluminum foil to stabilize them.
Prepare the dressing:
Heat butter and olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat.
Add chopped scallions and cook until softened, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for a further minute until fragrant.
Add the chopped ham and cook for 2 minutes or until cooked through.
Remove from the heat and stir in the breadcrumbs, Parmesan, parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Mix well.
Garnish the oysters.
Spoon a little of the ham-scallion-garlic dressing onto each oyster.
Broil the oysters:
Place the baking sheet under the broiler for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the topping is golden brown and crispy.
Serve:
Remove the oysters from the oven, garnish with additional parsley, and serve immediately with lemon wedges on the side.
Tips for Success
Use fresh oysters: Opt for fresh, live oysters for the best flavor and texture. Ask your fishmonger to shuck them if youre not confident doing it yourself.
Prep ahead: The ham-leek-garlic dressing can be made ahead of time and stored in the refrigerator for up to a day. Collect and grill the oysters just before serving.
Customize your flavor: For extra depth, add a splash of hot sauce, smoked paprika or white wine to the dressing.
An indulgent addition to any table, these grilled oysters offer a sophisticated twist on coastal and southern flavors.
